Bukharian Man's Robe No.82

This magnificent Bukharian man’s robe, dating to the late 19th century, represents not only the work of a master artisan but also stands as a silent witness to centuries of cultural exchange.
Woven in silk brocade in tones of gold and raspberry, the surface is entirely covered in stylized floral motifs, offering both a rich visual depth and insight into the aristocratic tastes of the period. When laid flat, the robe reveals a wide, conical form that enhances the visual impact of the fabric by fully displaying the intricate pattern. The cotton lining and the finely woven borders on the interior further testify to the piece’s excellence not only in aesthetics but also in technical craftsmanship.

However, what truly lends value to this robe is not merely its rich materials or flawless weave, but the historical and cultural memory it carries.
Starting in the 15th century, kamha weaving — sumptuous brocade fabrics made with gold and silver thread on silk — gained great popularity in the Ottoman court. These textiles influenced not only the empire’s sartorial culture but also neighboring civilizations through diplomatic gifts and trade. The technique reached its peak in the 16th and 17th centuries, becoming a true art form in the textile workshops of Istanbul. Kamha fabrics came to symbolize the grandeur of the sultan and the power of the state — not merely items of clothing, but markers of authority and prestige.

This aesthetic and technical tradition was carried eastward to Central Asia through the political and cultural relationships the Ottomans fostered with Turkic-Islamic dynasties.
In cities such as Bukhara, Samarkand, and Khiva, weaving traditions inspired by the Ottomans evolved by merging with local tastes and motifs, giving rise to a distinctive brocade culture. Bukharian craftsmen internalized the technical discipline of Ottoman kamha and infused it with their own color palettes and symbolic languages, producing textiles that reflect a strong regional identity while bearing universal aesthetic values.

This robe, No. 82, stands as a product of this very historical flow.
Likely woven in the 19th century for a member of an elite family in Bukhara, it not only reflects the fashion sensibilities of its time but also serves as a tangible document of the centuries-long artistic exchange across the Islamic world. Far more than a simple garment, this robe is a woven embodiment of craftsmanship, taste, the textile history interwoven with politics, and the interconnectedness of civilizations.

• Material: Silk brocade exterior; cotton lining; woven tape trim

• Dimensions:

  • Length (Neck to Hem): 127 cm (48.8 in)

  • Width (Sleeve to Sleeve): 190 cm (74.8 in)

Framing and Shipping Options:
Framing and shipping options are available at an additional cost. Please contact us prior to purchase for a detailed quote and available options.